Roshogolla

 

1524178_10154220906405573_5115683737530121643_oRoshogolla or Bengali Rasagulla is essentially spongy balls of indian cottage cheese (chhana) cooked in sugar syrup. There are various versions to the origin of this dessert, but this is the one I like, because this is the version my mom told me.

The year was 1868 in Bhagbajaar (Kolkata), a confectioner named Nobin Chandra Das was having a discussion with a bunch of freedom fighters who were concerned about the popularity of English desserts in India.

“Nobinda, these puddings and pies are becoming very popular. These days the youth prefer those to puli and pithe” said one of them.

“Can you think of a way we can change that? Your a master confectioner can you come up with something which is swadeshi and delicious?” said another.

Nonbinda thinks a little and says “I think I have an idea, let me try it out tonight and we can all taste it here tomm”

That evening the confectioner mulls around his kitchen, takes a bit of chhana and gives it a boil in sugar syrup flavored with fresh ground cardamom, a bit of rosewater and voila! One of the most popular dessert of India was created.

IMG_3637I do not have a sweet tooth, but this dessert has my heart. Its not fried and made from pure chhana (cottage cheese) and considered to be a safe comfort food when recovering from a fever or stomach upset (Not to mention the low calorie count per serving!). Since I grew up in Hyderabad and getting this from the Pada’r mishtir dokan (local sweet shop) was not really an option, my mom whipped some up in her kitchen. Recovering from a flu almost always involved mom feeding me some roshogollas and story telling.

IMG_3639This is a recipe that a lot of people requested I post, so here goes. Let me start by saying that this dessert is a tricky one to master and you might not get perfect result in your very first try, don’t let that discourage you. Here are a couple things that I learnt:

  1. Raw (non-homegenized/non-pasturized) Cow milk gives better result.
  2. After curdling the milk, gently squeeze out the extra whey and hang it for 45min-1 hour. This helps with having the right amount of moisture you need for the softness of the final product.
  3. While kneading  keep in mind that less is more. As soon as you feel grease in your palm, stop!
  4. Boil it in a big stock pot that has enough depth for the chhana balls to expand, thats how they become spongy
  5. Keep aside half of the sugar syrup and add some in between cooking time to ensure the syrup doesn’t get too dense or too hot.

Time for Prep: 45 mins     Time to Cook: 15 mins     Yield: 20-25 Servings     Level: Medium

Ingredients:

  • For the channa
    • 4 cups (32oz) whole milk
    • 2-3 tbsp lemon juice
  • For the sugar syrup:
    • 2 tbsp rose water
    • 3-4 cardamon, crushed
    • Saffron (optional)
    • 1.5 cup sugar
    • 4 cups water

Process:

  1. Making the channa:
    • Bring milk to a boil, add the lemon juice and lower heat. In a few seconds you will notice the milk solids forming. Turn off the heat. When the water is completely separated (turns a greenish shade) drain into a colander lined with cheese cloth.
    • Run a little bit of water on it to get rid of the lemony taste, drain.
    • Gather the ends of the cheese cloth and bring them together, like a purse, slowly squeeze out the water. Be careful not to burn your hands as it is really hot.
      • This is now my mom does it: Hold the ends with your left hand and using a pair of tongs hold the purse just on top of the solids with your right. Then slowly twist the cloth with your left hand. The water squeezes out without resulting in burning fingers.
    • Hang it for 45 mins-1 hour.
  2. Preparing the Golla (Balls from the channa):
    • Remove the channa from the cheese cloth, it should not be soggy wet nor should it be dry (The picture should give you an idea).
    • With the heel of your palm mash the channa and knead. Collect from the sides, mash, knead. Continue for around 10 mins (or less depending on the pressure of kneading). As soon as you feel a little grease in your palm, stop. over kneading will result in hard Roshogollas.
    • Now pinch out small portions and roll between palms to form smooth round balls no bigger than a quarter. (See picture)
    • once done, cover with moist muslin and set aside while you prepare the syrup.
  3. Preparing the Rosh (sugar syrup):
    • Place a large stock pot (or a pressure cooker) over medium heat.
    • Add the sugar, water, cardamon and saffron (optional).
    • Bring to a boil. Set aside around 1/2 cup of this syrup.
  4. Cooking the Roshagollas: 
    • To the rest of the sugar syrup add the chhana balls one by one.
    • Shake the pan gently, to move the balls a little and cover immediately. Do not stir, that will break the chhana balls.
    • After around 3-4 mins, open the lid and add half of the reserved sugar syrup and shake the pan. This step ensures that the consistency and temperature of the sugar syrup stays constant.
    • After another 3-4 mins repeat the step above and add the remaining reserved syrup, shake the pan.
    • Cook for 2 more mins. Check for the doneness of the roshogollas and switch off the heat. And add the rose water.
    • To check for doneness:
      • Take it out with slotted spoon, press a portion. If it springs back to original shape its done.
      • Or take one of them out and drop it in a glass of water, if it sinks its done. (I prefer this method).

If you ask a non-bangali, they would say that let it cool and then serve. But a Bangali will always say that the best way to enjoy these are when they are fresh and warm! The second best way is to let it chill for a couple hours first.

Note:

  • While preparing the Gollas from channa you can add 1-2 tsp of Sooji (Cream of wheat) or all purpose flour or arrowroot powder. This ensures that the chnana balls will not crumble when boiling in syrup.

Lao Posto (Opo Squash with KhasKhas/Poppy Seed)

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Posto or khaskhas or poppy seed is a pretty popular ingredient in bengali kitchens. It has this euphoric sleepy effect, which makes it a perfect ingredient for those lazy weekend afternoons, when all you have in the days plan is some reading and a nice long afternoon nap. And in a bengali household, thats usually the plan. We love our adda (chit chat/debates/political discussions), literature, good food and lazy afternoon naps followed by Cha (tea) and biscuit cookies (pronounced biskut) at 4:00 pm.

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Its not often that I find opo squash or bottle gourd in the local farmers market. I always do a little happy dance when I find them (Yes, fresh produce makes me happy! I am weird that way). This vegetable is one of my favorite, its versatile, light and packed with health benefits. But if your unable to find some, you can replace it with zuccini or summer squash as well.

Opo squash is very high in water content and usually shrinks to 1/2 the quantity when cooked so be careful while adding salt. Less is more, remember you can always add more salt later if need be.

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Time for Prep: 10 mins     Time to Cook: 30 mins     Yield: 4-6 Servings     Level: Easy

Ingredients:

  • 1 medium sized Opo Squash, cubed (around 3 cups)
  • 6 tbsp khaskhas/poppy seeds
  • 5-6 fresh green chilli, slit in half
  • 2-3 dried red chilli
  • 1 tsp black cumin
  • 1/2 tsp sugar
  • 3 tsp ghee or 2 tsp oil
  • salt to taste

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Process:

  1. Soak khaskhas/ poopy seeds in water for 15-20 mins.
  2. Heat 2 tsp of ghee in a pan in medium -high heat, add black cumin and dried red chilli, wait till they splutter.
  3. Add the chopped opo squash/ bottle gourd, pinch of salt and fresh green chilli, saute for 3-4 mins.
  4. Cover, reduce heat and let the squash cook until tender, 15-20 mins.
  5. In the mean time, drain and transfer the soaked khaskhas/ poppy seed to a blender, add a couple green chilli and salt to taste and grind to make a smooth paste. The paste should be thick and not watery.
  6. Once the squash is tender, add the poppy seed paste, mix it in so that its evenly coated, cover and cook for 5 more mins.
  7. Turn off the heat, add 1 tsp of ghee and 1 tsp of sugar, mix it in.
  8. Serve with plain rice.

 

Summer Squash and Lentil Stew

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Fall is my favorite season! The change of hue in leaves and the blue of the sky, the nip in the air, warm ciders, the festive feel around. With the chill also comes cravings for fresh warm food. My menu is usually dominated by parathas, stews and soups. Farmers market at this time of the year is all about squashes, pears, apples and cauliflower, so is most of the food I cook.

Fall is also the busiest time of the year for my artist career, prepping for the holiday season and my goal with cooking is to make wholesome quick meals. This is just that.

I used summer squash, you can get creative and use other vegetables too. This recipe calls for shallots, simply because I like how they punch in a lot of flavor and integrate easily and cherry tomatoes for the sweetness. You can use 1 regular onion and 1 regular sized tomato instead. The wine and vinegar is optional. The wine add a sweet fruity flavor and the vinegar a sourness that I like, but if you don’t have it handy don’t let that stop you from trying this, a pinch of sugar and some lemon juice will also work great!

I cooked the Lentil and Squash separately because the cooking time of the two is different. If you cook them together, all the squash will become mushy and pasty.

This goes great with Baguettes, rice, pulao or Quinoa Cakes.

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Time for Prep: 10 mins     Time to Cook: 35 mins     Yield: 4-6 Servings     Level: Easy

Ingredients:

  • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (or any cooking oil you prefer)
  • 3-4 shallots, finely diced
  • 4-5 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/4 cup sherry (optional)
  • 2 cups french green lentils, rinsed and soaked for 30 mins
  • 4 cups water
  • 1 tbsp sherry vinegar (optional)
  • 2 cups summer squash, chopped
  • 2 tsp cayenne
  • 1 tsp turmeric
  • 15-20 cherry tomatoes, halved or 1 tomato, chopped
  • 1 cup carrots, chopped
  • 1 cup green peas, fresh or frozen
  • 6-7 basil leaves, rolled into a bundle and cut into thin strips (chiffonade)
  • Fresh ground black pepper
  • Salt to taste

Process:

  1. Cooking the Lentil:
    1. Heat 2 tbsp oil in large sauce pan over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, 1 tsp cayenne and salt.
    2. Sauté until softened, about 3-4 mins. Add the wine and sauté till the onions begin to caramelize, around 4-5 mins more.
    3. Add the lentils, green peas and chopped carrots, stir them in and sauté for 2-3 mins.
    4. Add water, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until lentils are tender. Around 20 mins.
  2. Cooking the squash:
    1. While the lentils are cooking, heat 2 tbsp oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes, summer squash, 1 tsp cayenne and salt. Cook till tender.
  3. Once the lentils are cooked add the sherry vinegar. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
  4. Putting it together:
    1. Add the cooked summer squash to the lentil and start it in (Or)
    2. In a bowl fist ladle in the lentil, then top it with the squash.
  5. Garnish with basil leaves.

Quinoa Cakes

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Quinoa has been a staple grain in south america for centuries. But in recent times it has become increasingly popular around the world with its nutty flavor and high nutritional value. This is one of my favorite ways to cook quinoa and perfect for fall evenings when there is a little bit of chill in the air and all you want to eat is something warm and something snacky or as husband likes to say ‘Chakna’.

I have served this at brunches, as appetizers and as part of the main course. And its been a hit all around. In this instance I used a boiled potato to bind the quinoa dough but you can also use eggs (2 eggs lightly beaten), see notes for instructions.

Time for Prep: 10 mins     Time to Cook: 30 mins     Yield: ~8 Servings     Level: Easy

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup uncooked quinoa
  • 2 cups of water
  • 1/2 tbsp butter
  • 1/2 tbsp black pepper, ground
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp cayenne
  • 2 tsp cumin, roasted and ground
  • 1 tbsp cilantro, finely chopped
  • 3-4 fresh green chili, finely chopped
  • 1 medium sized potato, boiled and mashed.
  • Oil

Process:

  1. Cooking the Quinoa:
    1. Rinse the quinoa first always, this helps wash away the bitter coating. Make sure to use a fine mesh strainer.
    2. Heat a sauce pan, melt 1/2 tbsp of butter, add the quinoa and sauté for a couple mins. This really brings out a slight nutty flavor.
    3. Add salt and 1/2 tbsp ground black pepper, 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, cover and cook for 10- 15 mins in low heat or till all of the water is absorbed by the quinoa.
    4. Turn of the heat and let it sit for 5-10 mins to let it cool down.
  2. Making the Cake Dough:
    1. Heat a griddle, dry roast 2 tsp of cumin, until you smell the aroma. Transfer to a work surface and using a rolling pin roll over and roughly crush the roasted cumin.
    2. Combine the cooled quinoa, salt, cayenne, roasted  and ground cumin, cilantro, fresh green chili and the mashed potato.
    3. You should have a slightly moist dough.
  3. Cooking the Quinoa Cake:
    1. Heat a skillet or griddle pan, lightly oil it. Take around 1/4 cup of the quinoa mixture and form into a ball.
    2. Flatten it into a pancake around 1/4 inch thick.
    3. Place on hot griddle and cook, flip and cook until golden brown on both sides . Takes around 5 mins.
    4. Remove from pan and serve warm.

Notes:

  • I used potatoes here as a binding agent for the quinoa and that made it easy to shape the cakes with hand.
  • You can also use eggs (2 eggs lightly beaten) instead of the potato. In that case you will have a slightly wet mixture. So take around 1/4 cup and make it into a ball. Place it on the greased hot skillet and using a spatula flatten it into a pancake about 1/4 inch thick.
  • This is a vegetarian version, but I have made this by adding chopped cooked shrimp to the quinoa mixture to indulge by seafood cravings.
  • You can also add chopped carrots, grated beet roots etc..,. to the mixture. Have fun experimenting!

Narkel Nadu (Coconut Confectionary/ Coconut Truffle)

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Mahalaya (which just went by on October 12th) brings with it a tide of memories – setting the alarm for 3:45 am and gathering around the radio promptly at 4:00 am to hear ‘Mahisasura Mardini’ sung in the magical voice of Birendra Krishna Bhadhra, the man who made Mahalaya memorable. As he masterfully recites versus and narrates the story of the decent of Goddess Durga on earth and her valiant slaying of the demon Mahisasura, mom would get busy in the kitchen making a breakfast of Luchi (Puri), Aloor Torkari (sautéed potatoes) and Narkel Naru. The narration ends with mankind bowing to this supreme power- “Ya devi sarbabhuteshshu, sakti rupena sanksthita Namasteshwai Namasteshwai Namasteshwai namo namaha.”

And the feasting would begin! I am an Athiest,  but even today I wake up early morning every Mahalaya, turn on iTunes and listen to Mahisasura Mardini while making Luchi, Torkari and Narkel Nadu. It’s about traditions and re-living memories.

This is also a quick recipe for making a decadent dessert for any day in the year. My mom is known in our friend circle for the amazing Narkel Nadu she makes, I have just made a couple tweaks – she uses Cardamon Powder, I like to use All-Spice instead and replaced regular sugar with coconut palm sugar (for its low glycemic index).

Time for Prep: 5 mins     Time to cook: 30-35 mins      Yield: around 24     Level: Easy

Ingredients:

  • 12oz frozen grated coconut (or fresh grated coconut)
  • 8 tbsp sweetened condensed milk
  • 1/4 cup whole milk
  • 4 tbsp coconut palm sugar (or regular sugar)
  • 1 tsp ghee
  • 1 tsp all spice (or cardamon powder)
  • Dry coconut flakes (optional)

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Process:

  1. In a heavy bottom pan mix in the sugar and coconut, before turning on the heat.
  2. Turn the heat to low settings and cook the mixture for 4-5 mins, stirring frequently, till the sugar is melted and the coconut is lightly toasted.
  3. Add the milk and condensed milk, slowly stirring it in.
  4. Add the ground all spice (or cardamon powder). Taste test to see the level of sweetness and add more sugar if needed.
  5. Keep stirring frequently and cook in low-medium heat till the coconut is cooked. This will take approximately 30-35 mins.
    1. Milk dries up and the coconut comes out clean from the sides (see picture above).
    2. Be careful not to dry too much or you cannot make the balls.  I usually just test it out by making a ball and seeing if it stays, if not I cook a little more).
  6. Take off the heat, Add ghee and stir it in.
  7. Cool slightly and start making the balls by rolling it between your palms which are around 1 inch in diameter.
  8. Roll in dried coconut flakes (Optional).

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